A Few Golden Weeks: Larch Season in Switzerland
Every year, in early October, I start to go a little crazy. I feel a nip in the air and think - yes, it’s almost here. I start obsessively checking webcams and Instagram tags. I monitor sudden drops in temperature. I jump if I spot an unexpected pop of yellow. I block out my weekends.
I’m talking, of course, about larch season.
Before moving to Switzerland, I had no knowledge of the golden larch, and thus, no idea what I was missing. But now that I know about their existence, I’ve become a woman obsessed. The golden larch is one of the rare deciduous conifers, whose green needles turn a distinctive golden-yellow every autumn before falling. They are absolutely brilliant. And as it turns out, southern Switzerland is full of larch forests that put on a huge splashy show every October. Every fall, I go on a pilgrimage to try to see these extraordinary trees at least once. It’s my favorite time of year.
Why am I so obsessed with the larches? For many reasons. If you’ll allow me to wax poetically for a moment: I love that some of them are so bright, they look electric. I love that they grow at high altitudes, in places drenched in sunshine. I love that you can feel that sunshine radiating from the branches, like each delicate, feathery needle has absorbed an individual beam of light. I love that they grow among evergreen firs, and how next to them the larches are like Christmas trees dipped in gold.
But I love most of all that they are fleeting. Larch season is glorious and intoxicating, but it is also short-lived. It’s easy to miss. It’s not a guarantee. And if I am lucky enough to experience a day in their few golden weeks, I am always struck by the brilliance, the fragility, the transience of it all. I love that above all, these larches remind me to revel in the moment.
If you think I’m a little crazy and over the top, I get it. Honestly, every October I wonder if I’m making too big a deal about larch season. And then I see them and fall in love all over again. So, let this be the sign from the universe to go and see the spectacle for yourself.
When to Go
The hardest part is the timing. Golden larch season is somewhat variable, depending on the weather. In my experience, the larches here start turning in mid-October, and peak in color around the 3rd or 4th week of the month. But this is not an exact science. In 2023, we had a warmer season, and some larches remained green until the end of the month. This year (2024), there was an early frost, and I spotted some trees in Graubünden starting to turn on September 28. There are various “larch trackers” online, but the best bet is to try to find individual webcams in the region you are hoping to visit. I also search for recent pictures on Instagram.
And even when they start turning, the colors will differ depending on the stage. Larch colors can range from buttery yellow to bright orange to rich copper. They are all beautiful, but for me, the sweet spot is right in-between that yellow and orange stage.
Where to Go
Larches are found in dry high valleys and at high altitudes. Graubünden (the Engadin area in particular) and Valais are the two cantons most famous for their larch forests, although they are found in other areas of Switzerland. I’ve listed some of my favorite regions below. If I have a specific hike that I love in that region, it is linked. Often, I try to find more challenging trails that start in larch forests and then end at some higher point above the treeline - but all of the areas below have easier forest walks as well.
Graubünden
Upper Engadin
St. Moritz, and the surrounding areas, are probably the most popular place to go for larches. It’s not hard to see why. The larch forests here are expansive, and surrounded by turquoise lakes and snowy mountains. But expect lots of crowds, especially on the weekends, with busy trains and busier buses.
Morteratsch (Pontresina)
Val da Camp (Poschiavo)
Cavalgia & Alp Grüm (Poschiavo)
Silsersee & Silvaplana (Lej Tscheppa is a great hike)
Lower Engadin
While hordes of people flock to the Upper Engadin, the Lower Engadin remains delightfully calm (at least, for now). The tiny villages of Zernez, Guarda, Lavin, Tarasp and Scoul are not only incredibly quaint, but also surrounded by beautiful larch forests. I think that this hike may still be considered a hidden gem, if only because you really have to work for it.
Davos Klosters
I rarely see the Davos Klosters region on “best larch spots” list, and I don’t really know why. This region has huge larch forests. The roundtrip hike up to the Seehorn, above Davosersee, is a short but tough hike with larch forests and a birds-eye view of the area. The valleys of Sertig Dörfli and Flüela Pass are also stunning.
Valais
Upper Valais
The Upper Valais is the German-speaking area of Valais, and another quite famous place for larches. Big standouts here include the Aletsch Glacier, the largest glacier in the Alps, and Zermatt, home of the Matterhorn. But my favorite is the so-called “magic valley” of the Lötschental.
Zermatt
Central/Lower Valais
Central and Lower Valais are the French-speaking areas of Valais. The Lac Bleu is quite popular, but anywhere in the Val d’Herens is a sure bet for gorgeous larch forests.
Lac Bleu & Aiguilles Rouge (Val d’ Herens)
Balavaux (Haute-Nendaz)
Ticino
I’ve yet to explore the Ticinese larch forests, but I’ve seen photos and it looks stunning.
Rossa - Capanna Buffalora
Airolo - Lago di Ravina
