Fall Hikes in Switzerland
The only thing that makes the end of summer hiking season bearable is the advent of autumn hiking season (“fall colors hiking,” if you will). Fall in Switzerland is truly dreamy. The air is crisp, and the weather is a little bit more stable. The mountains are usually dusted with a bit a snow. And best of all, we get a whole spectrum of reds, oranges, yellows, and all the shades in between. I look forward to this every year. Especially the golden larches. Swoon.
Timing is always a little tricky. For the most part, mid-to-late October is a sure bet to see autumn colors in full swing all over the country. For hikes with larch forests, you’ll definitely want to make sure the colors are at their peak before you go - it’s worth it. Generally, this is the 3rd to 4th week in October, but it varies every year. The colors in Northern Switzerland tend to hold on a bit longer (even through early November). MySwitzerland actually has a foliage map that they update a few times a week, showing the current and predicted foliage colors throughout Switzerland.
**Please check the trail status beforehand, as some of these areas can get an early snow that would make the trails dangerous, difficult, or inaccessible**
If you do the Val da Camp hike, just prepare to be completely overwhelmed. Overwhelmed in the best way. It is absolutely exquisite. The star of the show is the pristine Lagh da Saeseo, a lake surrounded by a thick forest of golden larches and evergreen pines, towered over by snow-capped mountains, all perfectly reflected in the crystalline water. The colors are so intensely saturated - aquamarine, topaz blue, saffron yellow, buttery gold, hunter green - it is almost too much to take in at once. Overwhelmed. But truthfully, this whole trail is sensory overload. I’m not sure if I’ll ever recover.
This hike can be done as a (very very long) day trip from Zurich, but only with a car - so it’s best to stay the night somewhere in the Upper Engadin area. We drove up to Pontresina on Friday morning, did the easy-but-beautiful Morteratsch Glacier trail that afternoon, then tackled this trail on Saturday. A perfect two days in one of the prettiest regions of Switzerland.
Ardez - Crap Putèr - Tarasp: Lower Engadin
I’d say this hike packs a one-two punch: golden larches throughout the whole of the Engadin valley (bam), combined with truly extraordinary views of the Engadin Alps (wa-BAM). But the reality is that it packs a million more punches…with maybe the biggest punch being that this trail and viewpoint seems to be a hidden, locals-only gem. While hordes of people flock to other areas of Switzerland for larches, the Lower Engadin remains delightfully calm. This hike requires quite a bit of effort, but I promise, it pays off. There is a moment, after the steepest climb of the trail, when the entire mountainside opens up to you, and if that view doesn’t make your heart catch in your throat, I don’t know what will.
Tip: You can do this trail either way, but I recommend starting in Ardez, and ending in Tarasp.
I picked this hike because the trail passes by Lac Bleu, the tiny jewel of the region that is famously fringed by larches. Because is there anything more beautiful than the combination of turquoise water and golden trees and snow-dusted mountains? It’s the ultimate autumn trifecta. However, I didn’t expect to be just as - if not more so - overwhelmed by the rest of the hike, which took us far up above the valley to the Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges. Sadly the hut was closed when we hiked in late October, but the setting could not be more spectacular. The portion of the trail from the hut back to Arolla was particularly stunning - a long traverse under the mountain chain, with peak after dramatic peak, dripping with glaciers, sprawled out before us. I would have absolutely loved this hike without the larches. But oh yes, there are larches too.
Arolla is a far journey from Zurich (over 4 hours one way by train), so I’d recommend staying overnight somewhere in the Val d’ Herens.
Lötschental Höhenweg: Valais
Lotschental has one of the densest larch forests in all of Valais, and you are going to want to be there right when they put on their yearly show. The trail itself is well-marked and gorgeous the entire way. Blatten to Fafleralp is known as the “path of reflection,” along meadows and through forests and speckled with little wooden chalets (and herds of Valais black-nosed sheep, if you are lucky!). Schwarzee is one of those tiny, more pond than lake, lakes, that gives a perfect reflection of the fall foliage and snow-capped mountains behind it. And the panoramic views en route to Lauchernalp are jaw-dropping. Especially when the entire valley is aflame in color. The Lötschental is truly a magical valley, rich in exciting legends, centuries-old traditions and local customs (don’t miss Tschäggättä in the winter), and incredible mountain-valley views.
Be prepared: It is the magic valley, not the undiscovered one. Expect lots of crowds during the October weekends.
Route (we did this backwards, starting in Blatten)
Aletsch Glacier Suspension Bridge Trail: Valais
This one is impressive at any point during hiking season - but extraordinary in the fall. Trust me. The trail starts out with a panoramic view of the sprawling (yet sadly, receding) Alestch glacier, and just gets better as it goes on. The suspension bridge is of course a highlight, but it faces stiff competition from the famous golden larches and ancient Swiss stone pines in Aletsch Forest, and the sweeping views of the Valais Alps. At their peak, the larch trees turn a bright golden yellow. But last year, we went slightly late in the season (around Oct. 20). And the larch trees were such a deep fiery orange, they looked like they were glowing in the late fall sunshine. Autumn colors at their very finest.
Uetliberg and Felsenegg: Zürich
Uetliberg is Zurich’s “little mountain,” with beautiful views of the city and the lake. On super clear days, Uto Kulm offers panoramic views of the Alps which seem to go in every direction. Our favorite route is about 2-3 hours. We start by taking the short but steep Föhreneggweg trail, that It starts at Albisguetli and goes to the very top of Uto Kulm. Then, we double back to follow the wide ridgeline trail to Felsenegg. You get Lake Zurich to one side, cows and countryside to the other, and Alps as far as the eye can see. The Felsenegg restaurant has a beautiful panoramic deck and a cozy interior. Definitely have a mug of gluhwein before catching the cable car to the Adliswil train station ( alternatively, there is a steep footpath path down).
The colors on Uetliberg start slow in early October, really get going by the end of the month, and last to early November. Luckily for those of us who live in Zurich, we get to catch the whole show.
Atzmännig Chrüzegg Loop: Zürich/Eastern Switzerland
An autumn hike that is just a lovely in the fog as it would be in perfect weather. Honestly, maybe even a little better. The foggy skies really make the orange and yellows trees pop, and everything is a little more quiet and mysterious and spooky - perfect for the season! I half expected to run into the Sanderson sisters in the woods. But I can image on a clearer day, seeing all the rolling foothills covered their vibrant fall colors would be truly spectacular as well! And I’ve heard the views of Zurichsee, Walensee and the surrounding mountains are stunning. The loop trail itself is pretty easy and straightforward. The only obstacles are muddy trails, which can get really slippery with wet rocks and fallen leaves. Poles are helpful!
Murgseen Rundweg: Glarus
This loop hike, that goes through the Murg valley and up to the namesake lakes, has been on my list for a while - but I was saving it for shoulder season. It’s not necessarily bursting with fall colors (although there are some lovely yellow and red trees lower in the valley), but the landscape does give off a somewhat moody, dramatic sense that feels perfect for autumn. The trailhead is ~1 hour from Zurich via car, with enough elevation gain to make you feel like you’ve done some work, but it’s not super long or super tough. Plus, the highest point is under 2000 meters, so it probably will be a good bet to hike even through November (unless there is some early snow).
ViaRhenana (Stage 4): Northern Switzerland
This section is part of the longer ViaRhenana, a historic ten-stage hike. Stage 4 in particular packs in plenty of highlights for the leisurely, 14km walk: Schaffhausen, with it’s beautiful old town and medieval fortress, the Rhine Falls, which are always a spectacular sight in any season (but biggest in the spring), and the quaint town of Rheinau, with it’s striking baroque monastery built on a tiny island - not to mention the meandering Rhine River, which you follow the entire way. The best part, though, was that this trail unexpectedly remote. The long stretch between the Rhine Falls and Rheinau was wonderfully serene: a nearly uninterrupted narrow path, right where the river bank met the forest. The setting is seriously beautiful.
Weggis to Mt. Rigi: Central Switzerland
If you’re in the mood for a climb, the Mark Twain trail is always a good bet. Plus, because the RigiBahn is open year-round, you can do this hike later in the season and still catch a ride back down. It’s a 10km, 1350 meter ascent, but considered a “moderate” trail because it’s not technical and pretty straight forward (just also straight up). Mark Twain famously hiked this route when it was the only way up the mountain (pre-RigiBahn days), and maybe more famously, took three days to get to the top. That’s because our man Mark liked to start his day at about 3pm. Raunaq and I have done this trail in about 2.5-3 hours, keeping a brisk (and really sweaty) pace. The Mark Twain trail winds through forests, small hamlets and cow pastures, with panoramas of Lake Lucern and the surrounding Alp landscape the whole time. And it’s all so pretty in the fall. You’ll be climbing pretty much the whole time, but in the words of Twain, you’ll also be treated to views “as charming as glimpses of dreamland,” too.
Tremorgio to Dalpe: Ticino
I loved every second of every step of this trail - even the last few steep kilometers on my jelly legs. This hike truly has it all: vibrant alpine lakes, spiky mountains, high plateaus, colorful valleys, waterfalls, that perfectly idyllic remoteness. While we technically hiked this trail in the fall (it was post-September 21st, after all), I think it will be spectacular in a few weeks. There were some early fall colors in the high alpine meadows, and they contrasted so beautifully with the deep cerulean water of Lago di Morghirolo. And while normally I would curse a long, 3-hour descent, some of it is through a larch forest, which will always be worth the sore legs. It’s a long hike (plan for at least 6 hours of moving time), which is what makes it a difficult trail, but it is truly excellent from start to finish.
Marbachegg: Central Switzerland
A nice autumn hike that has enough elevation gain to make it feel like a good workout, but with easy wide paths so that nothing is too challenging. The Schrattenfluh peaks themselves are quite striking, and on a clear day, you’ll be able to see all the way to the Bernese Alps: the Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn and Eiger mountains all visible. The best fall colors were down in Marbach and around the Schübelsmoosgrabe, and I’d imagine they will peak in late October. We were still a tad bit early on Oct. 17. This hike is all pretty low elevation (highest point is about 1500 meters), so it will be a good option late into the season, too. Take note that the gondola from Marbach to Marbchegg only runs until Oct 24 2021, so if you go after that, you’ll have to walk down.
Route (we did this backward, starting at Marbach and walking up)
Hirzli Rundweg: Eastern Switzerland
We did this hike last year late in autumn, right at the very end of November. It was like seeing fall frozen in time (literally - a cold snap covered all the colored leaves with delicate icicles). Zurich gets pretty foggy and rainy in November, so this is a good option if you are looking for some sunshine. Climbing up to Hirzli peak, at over 1600 meters, will likely give the height needed to get above the clouds. I remember that we started the trail in thick fog, but right as we reached the peak, we saw the most glorious sight anyone can behold in late November: blue skies.
The hike is a circular trail that starts and ends from the Morgenholz Bergstation. It’s about 8 km and 680 meters of steep ascent/descent, but very doable. It’s also possible to extend the hike by taking the ridge from Hirzli to Planggenstock, but as this portion is quite exposed, I would recommend skipping it if the trail is wet or iced over.
Additional Suggestions
Areas we haven’t yet been to in the fall, but are on our list:
Klöntarsee
Wasserfallen Chellechöpfli
Lavaux vineyards
Zermatt
