Edelweissweg (Höhbalmen Höhenweg): Valais, Southern Switzerland
This isn’t just the best hike in Zermatt - this is one of the best hikes we’ve done in Switzerland. And maybe the best-kept secret, too. I have no idea how this trail isn’t more popular.
Every single stage of this trail is wonderful. The first initial climb from Zermatt to Trift cuts up through the mountains, along the Triftbach river. Numerous rare alpine flowers blossom along this path, including the elusive wild edelweiss. After about 850 meters, we reached the charming pink and blue Hotel du Trift (it’s very Wes Anderson-esque!), sitting in the high alpine valley surrounded by a stunning cirque of high peaks and glaciers. The subsequent climb to the high plateau above Trift was probably one of my top Swiss experiences to date: the extraordinary moment when I reached the Höhbalmen plateau, and the tip of the Matterhorn came into view. It’s unforgettable. The world’s most famous mountain, right there in front of you. The trail continues along the Höhbalmen plateau, then cuts parallel across the mountains high above the Zmutt valley with the Matterhorn drawing closer and closer. The trail is narrow in spots along this part, and felt a bit exposed (simply because we were so high up) but really was quite safe. The final segment of the hike drops down through pretty meadows along the north side of the valley, through streams and glacial waterfalls and the tiny wooden hamlet of Zmutt.
Zermatt is well-known as home to the Matterhorn, and there are plenty of trails that will get you a Matternhorn-view for far less effort. But this trail feels wonderfully wild. There are no mountain trains, no gondolas, no cable cars. With the phenomenal views of all the 4,000-meter peaks in the area, it would be an epic hike without the unparalleled views of Matterhorn. But you get that, too. Easily one of the best hiking days we’ve ever had. Pick a promising day, and hit the trail.
Start: Zermatt (trail begins in the village, behind the restaurant Grampi’s)
End: Zermatt
Basic Route: Zermatt - Alterhaupt (Edelweiss hut) - Trift - Höhbalmen - Zmutt - Zermatt
Length and Rating: Difficult. 20km, 1250m ascent/1250m descent, 7 hours.
