Three Lakes of Alpstein: Appenzell, Eastern Switzerland
The namesake three lakes (Seeaplsee, Fählensee, and Sämtisersee) are all beautiful in their own right, but this trail has so much on offer: a heart-pumping climb for a bird-eyes view of Seealpsee, the most charming herdsmans village of Megaslip tucked high and deep in the mountains, and sweeping views of Santis and the sharp, distinctive ridges of the Apstein - just to name a few of the highlights. There are so many more! But you’ll work for it. Plan for about 6-8 hours of hiking time, with about 1150 meters of collective ascent.
The trail is easy (albeit steep) and straightforward until Seealpsee, the first of the three lakes. The section after the lake is steeper, rockier terrain. There are no exposed areas here, but some sections with a security cable for the parts with a bigger drop-off. Views just get better and better the higher you go - it’s a real treat to see Seealpsee from above. If you didn’t pack any lunch, Meglisalp is a great place to stop (we didn’t eat here, but the smells wafting from the village were truly intoxicating). Although if you can hold out, the Bollenwees hut by Fählensee serves a truly epic rösti dish - they deepfry it and it’s to die for.
In early summer, there is often one big snowfield right after the Widderalpsattel. The path through the snow is narrow (the width is only one foot right in front of the other), but the angle isn’t too bad and while a bit scary, it was passable. And prepare your knees: the final descent to Brülisau is one of very worst. SO SO EFFING STEEP. Finally: The last bus from Brülisau leaves at 6:15pm, so plan accordingly. It’s best to give yourself an earlier start, to ensure you aren’t rushed and have time to enjoy all three of the lakes.
Tip: For a beastly but EPIC day, add on Saxer Lücke and Staubern after Fählensee. Basically, this will combine the highlights from the 3 Lakes Trail with the Saxer Lücke trail. It will be a big hiking day with lots of ascent, but a pretty stunning way to experience the best of the Alpstein.
Start: Wasserauen Bahnhof
End: Brülisau
Basic Route: Wasserauen – Seealpsee – Unterstrich – Meglisalp – Widderalpsattel – Bollenwees am Fählensee – Sämtisersee – Plattenbödeli – Brülisau
Length and Rating: Challenging. The incline and length will make for a long day. 18km, 1150m ascent, 6-8 hours
